Method of manufacturing union-suits and drawers



1. P. wals. f METHOD 0F MANUFACTURING .UNION SUITS AND DRAWERS.APPLICATIN FILED .IAN-,3, 1919. lREIIIHHID DEC. 24, I9I9.

. 1,342,0l. PatIantedJune 1, w20.

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HTTORNES.

, citizen of the United States, residing at JOHN P. WEIs, OENYACWK, NEWYORK, AssIGNoR OEONE-HALE To METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION,OIE DOVER, DELAWARE, A CORPORATION .or

DELAWARE.

METHOD OE MANUFACTURING UNION-SUITS AND DRAWERsL Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented J une 1, 1920.

Application filed January 3, 1919, Serial No. 269,479. VRenewed December2e,V i919. Serial No. 347,193.

To all whom #may concern:

\ Be itfknown'thatl, JOHN PETER VVEIs, a

Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State vof New York, rhave inventedcertainV new and useful improvementsl in Methods of ManufacturingUnion-Suits and Drawers,

of whichthe following is a specification.

This invention relates `to a method` of manufacture from flattenedtubular goods of 'either union' suits or drawers in which the legs andthe f body-coveringV portion are integral; the object of the inventionbeing econ,

-omy of labor and'material.

lInthe accompanying drawing forming a part hereof and illustrating theproduct of of the flattened tube; ,3 neck-opening vcutouts; 4l;lengthwise slits over the chest and abdomen, in the front wall only ofthe flattened tube; v5 one of the two superimposed crotch-pieces cut outfrom between four legs tlie ankle ends of which are contiguous; V5EL theend ytongues ofthe two superimposed crotch-pieces; 6 notches for use ininserting gussets; and v7 the inside leg seaming. There are two opposednotches 6 near lthe adjacent end portion of each two superimposedcrotch-piecetongues, in practice about eight inches. Between the notches6 of one garment and the Vcorresponding notches 6 of the next successivegarment, the inside legforming seams are formed; the nedges oftheleg-forming portions adjacent the tongues not being stitched.

The flattened tube is fed endwise in the direction of the arrow adjacentthe drawing, and subsequently to the formation of the two transverselyopposed armholes 2 of the garment initiallv "formed fromv the advancingend 4portion of the tube, the fiatytened tube as it travels forward isultimately slit at-its two Opposite edges to formfon each 'edgeA anelongated slit at 2, each of these slits as shown atthe `left-hand endof the y 'edge of the iiattened tube two contiguous' drawing'being longenough +A 41M@ n each arinlioles of two garment-forming sections of thetraveling tube. The neck cut-outs 3 are not made during the mtimeoperations vnow described, but are made during the sub- `sequentfinishing operations.

; but for mens garments such chestl and' y front opening extends from wto m2 forming a front opening from' the vneck down the l chest andabdomen. Villienr this yslit '4l which 'is midwaybetween the side edgesof the flattened tube and lengthwise of it, reaclies'its inward orllower'end at m2, the-lengthwisecutting operation then'coinprises twocutting movements spaced apart-and parallel one to another' as at 003 toforni the side edges of the initially superimposed 'crotch`piecertonguesa. They cutting operations each along the two VVparallellaterally-spaced apart lines 003 Vterminate at m4 where they firstdiverge and then gradually converge to both .walls of the flattened'tube as from 'm4 to 005. The centrally formed tonguesiare ltransverselysevered at vtheir outer ends from the tube walls; thus two superimposedforni two oppose'dly lconcave cuts through crotch-pieces areprogressively formed,"be

ing released' from the flattened tube and falling out from between the'four`leg-forming portions 1a produced at each'side of the superimposedcrotch-pieces. The two lines of seaming 7 constitutethe inside steamingof these leg portions '1? which are as yet integral at their ankle ends,and'this seaming is performed at the same time .the concave cuts varemade. Whenthetwo cuts 'fromaa4 ent Vparallel cutting operations are-again "performed from "m5 tout to i-formuthe left? hand superimposedcrotch-piece tongues 5EL continuing from fc5 to m7, and when these rearend tongues 5L have `been lproduced to vto m5 reach the points m5, thetwo'indepen da single cutting operationis again performed V through thefront wall of theiiattened'tube forming'another abdominal andV chestfront opening aloiig'tlie line 4a, the cutfextending for inensgarmentsfrom mlto 'x8 at the next following neck out-out 3a; `or ifwornensV .garments as Ordinarily requiredare' tobe made thisla'st linelof out 'from m7 willvbe intermitted until the vsecond intermediateIpoint :09 is reached where'it willbegin and continue to w8. r.

Vbut this Vtransverse severingl along the line y-g/ does not occur untilthat line of cut has come into Vthe position of thetransversevlength-cutters at efe. VThe line a-m represents the line oftransverse cutting across the full width of the flattened `tube to severtwo adjacent shoulder ends of suc- 1 cessive union suits or shirtsformed from the Y tube and Vto provide contiguous to the lime of cut ateach edge of the flattened tube the requisite .pair of armholes for eachgarment. The drawing shows a section of tube long enough to form twosuccessive union suits and a portion of the armholed end of the nextsucceeding union suit; but it will be obvious thatV if in the progressof this tube cut and sewn at lthe inside of the leg-forming portionsas'descrbed, the tube is successively cut in two crosswise on a line ofcut coinof the transverse cutters at e-a;

cident approximately with the two points m and m9, successive .pairsofvdrawers only would be formed.V The approximate lines of cut,for thistransverseV division of a union-suitforming section of the atten'ed tubeinto pairs of drawersare indicated by ful-fw. The cutting and sewingoperations described as a part of Vthis method may be performed in aproperly organized machine with very great rapidity-, in-practice at aspeed of approximately 8,000 to 4,000 yards per eight hours, and themethod is useful in the production of all sizes including length size ofunion suits and drawers, from infants sizes to the largest sizesrequired. lengthwise slits may be through the front or both walls of theattened tube. Thus in sleeping garments for children, instead of thefront slit in the front wall the slit is in the-back wall ofthe attenedtube. It is not desirable by the present method to Vtransversely cut intwo along the lines w-fw the successive union suits for the purpose ofconverting each into a pair of drawers and Vother words the transversecut-off at` z-V-z iseffected when the flattened tube portions indicatedat w-w reach the fixed position In small childrens sizes of drawers,side slits 2 which form armholes in the union suits, are made at 2a andbecome side slits of drop seat drawers. The openings left between theThe back and front walls of thetubev from the opposed notches 6 to thekfree ends of the crotch-piece tongues, afford free edges to which theedges of crotch gussets etc. are

stitched in the finishingoperations` Whatlclaim isr- ,f l. llheherein-described process of cutting and partially seaming successive leggarments from flattened tubular goods, consisting in successivelycutting and partially seaming from the fiattened tube a succession ofsuccessive legged rgarments by progressively making through both wallsof the flattened tube inwardly 'of the tube edges,

two parallel cuts spaced apart, thereby forming crotch-piece tongues; incontinuf ing such cuts'in the lengthwise direction of the flattened tubein opposed concave paths terminating in two parallel cuts spaced apart,thereby forming crotch-piece continu-V ations of the initially-formedtonguesV t0-k gether with terminal crotch-piece tongues;

in transversely severing the superposed crotchpiecetongues thusformedfrom the flattened'tube; in opposedly notching, ad-

jacent each-pair of superposed .crotch-piece Y tongues,.the opposedsuperposed edges ofleg-formingportions left by removal of thecrotch-pieces and their tongues; in seaming lengthwise of each concavecut from the firstformed to the last-formed notches; leaving thestraight cut edges and the intermediate concave cut edges of theflattened tube unseamedfrom eachnotch vto the transverse end cutof thetongues unseamed; in transversely severing the iattened tube midway Yseaming from the flattened tube a succession of successive leggedgarments `by progressively making through both walls of the flattenedtube inwardly of the tube edges, two parallel cuts spaced apart, therebyformcuts in the lengthwise direction of the flattened tube in opposedconcave paths terminating intwo parallel cuts spaced apart, therebyforming crotch-piece continuations of the initially-formed tonguestogetherv ing crotch-piece tongues; in continuing such with terminalcrotch-piece tongues; in transversely severing the superposedcrotch-piece tongues thus formed from the Vflattened tube; in opposedlynotching, adjacent each opposed `superposed edges of leg-formingportions left by removal of the crotch-pieces and their tongues; inseaming lengthwise of each concave cut 'from the'rstfformed -to .Y pairof superposed crotch-piece tongues, the

the last-formed notches; leaving the straight cut edges and theintermediate concave cut edges of the flattened tube unseamed from eachnotch to the transverse end cut of the tongues unseamed; in transverselysevering the flattened tube midway between the opposed notches at eachend of the crotchpiece and tongue cut-out to Jorm a pair of garmentseachhaving a pair of legs; in lengthwise slitting the flattened tube; and 10in progressively and oppositely edge-slitting the flattened tube whererequired.`

In testimony whereof I have hereunto g set my hand this 3l day ofDecember, 1918.

JOHN P. WEIS.

